----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Echemann
To:
amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 11:34 AM
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Electrical Question/Help
I had my car running fine with no problems and put about 25 miles on her
when she simply stopped.
This is not yet a starter problem. There's not enough power available to the
coil to create the spark at the spark plugs. Why?
Maybe an open power feed between the ignition switch and the coil. Maybe a bad
ignition switch.
Pushed it home as I was close but it would not
start.
Would not crank, or cranked but wouldn't fire?
I noticed when the ignition key was engaged I didn't get any turn or
noise from the starter but my positive ground connection started to smoke.
It also smoked at the starter connection.
Smoking insulation is always a BAD sign. The wires are getting way too hot, and
that means excessive current (or normal current for an excessively long time;
i.e., the starter may draw 75-100 amps, but only for a few seconds; draw 100
amps for 45 seconds, and the wiring gets HOT).
The battery-to-frame cable and the solenoid-to-starter cable got very hot. The
normal (heavy) starting current flows from the battery negative, to the starter
solenoid, across the solenoid contacts, to the starter, through the starter
windings, then to the engine block. Hmmm, my Amphi doesn't have a block-to-frame
cable. (Maybe that's not normal.) The current path in my Amphi would have to
flow from the block to the clutch bell housing to the land trans case to the
trans moutning flanges, and finally to frame via a ground strap at one trans
mounts. This is not good, since there are several gasketed joints in that path,
and current may be flowing in bad places like the trans gears. I will fix that
by putting a heavy strap from the block to the battery ground stud.
Also, looking at John Bevins schematic, which is pre-blige blower, I note that
there is no "run" resistor. A run resistor is typically placed between the
ignition switch "run" terminal and the ignition coil. The coil is designed to
operate at about 8 or 9 volts, and the resistor drops the 12 V battery voltage
to the right level. But, when you turn the ignition switch to "start", the heavy
load of the solenoid and starter motor will drag your system voltage down,
giving you a weak spark just at the time when you need a hefty spark at the
spark plugs. The solution is a wire running from the ignition switch "start"
terminal to the coil. When the ignition switch is turned to "start", not only is
the starter solenoid and starter motor energized, but the full battery voltage
is applied to the coil (actually bypassing the run resistor). As soon as you let
go of the ignition switch, the coil is back to getting it's power through the
run resistor.
I changed the starter but it still didn't start but does with the botton in
back. The ground seems fine now. I then noticed my ignition switch had a
crack and a loose terminal connection so I swapped it out thinking this was
my problem all along. Another switch is on but still I can get my blower to
come on and most of the electricals to work but the car will not start with
the key. It will however with the rear button. I then cleaned and checked
all my connections behind the muffler but still it won't work. I change out
some fuses etc. but this did not help.
Any thoughts.
Mike
If the car will crank by pushing the solenoid button, but will not crank when
turning the ignition switch, then it's a bad switch, bad relay coil, or bad
wiring. Check the solenoid coil terminals for voltage when you turn the ignition
switch to "start". With respect to frame ground, one solenoid coil terminal
should read 12 V, and the other should read 0 V. If both read 0 V, then the
power is not getting to the solenoid coil. If both read 12 V, then the solenoid
coil to frame ground is bad.
Check this out, and we'll see if you find something.
Ed
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Linear Mode
