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mytwocentsworth
Old
  (#1 (permalink))
wick68355@aol.com
 
Posts: n/a
   
mytwocentsworth - 01-29-2003, 12:44 PM


On door seals. I would think you would be better off with both seals
installed as was original. Just the idea of the rubber against the steel does
not seem as secure as rubber to rubber.
On bleeding brakes. I like to bleed the brakes on our Amphi every season.
This just gives me a piece of mind knowing that I have done what I can to
keep the fluid free of dirt and water. I have tried a pressure bleeder and
have not had much luck. I have also tried a Mighty Vac bleeder. This just
does not seem to work either. I believe it does not work because of the
valveing in the master. My best luck has been simply be following the large
shop manual which came with the Amphicar. All that I do is open one bleeder
at a time and then push the peddle down, here is where it gets weird. Let the
peddle up then close the bleeder. Do not pump the peddle. Start at the
farthest wheel and work towards the closest to the master.
Also for you first time or new Amphi owners, replace the small hose that is
attached to the bottom of the plastic reservoir. It has a tendency to
collapse and not let fluid out.
On positive ground generators. I have kept our Amphi positive ground only
because of my desire to keep as many things original as possible. My one
modification to the charging system is the addition of an extra positive
ground cable running from the stud on the body to the engine block. This just
helps the engine block get a direct ground.

My long two cents worth
Tim Wick
hibernating in Wisconsin


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  
Re: mytwocentsworth
Old
  (#2 (permalink))
buoyant3
 
Posts: n/a
   
Re: mytwocentsworth - 01-30-2003, 07:49 AM


Tim
How's it going? I need to do a brake job and want to learn anything
special B4 I start. I don't understand the part in your bleeding
where you let the peddle up then close the bleeder. I have always
closed the bleeder B4 letting the peddle up. What gives?
Marty
BUOYANT in WI
Looking for a little more snow tonight.

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, wick68355@a... wrote:
> On door seals. I would think you would be better off with both
seals
> installed as was original. Just the idea of the rubber against the
steel does
> not seem as secure as rubber to rubber.
> On bleeding brakes. I like to bleed the brakes on our Amphi every
season.
> This just gives me a piece of mind knowing that I have done what I
can to
> keep the fluid free of dirt and water. I have tried a pressure
bleeder and
> have not had much luck. I have also tried a Mighty Vac bleeder.
This just
> does not seem to work either. I believe it does not work because of
the
> valveing in the master. My best luck has been simply be following
the large
> shop manual which came with the Amphicar. All that I do is open
one bleeder
> at a time and then push the peddle down, here is where it gets
weird. Let the
> peddle up then close the bleeder. Do not pump the peddle. Start at
the
> farthest wheel and work towards the closest to the master.
> Also for you first time or new Amphi owners, replace the small hose
that is
> attached to the bottom of the plastic reservoir. It has a tendency
to
> collapse and not let fluid out.
> On positive ground generators. I have kept our Amphi positive
ground only
> because of my desire to keep as many things original as possible.
My one
> modification to the charging system is the addition of an extra
positive
> ground cable running from the stud on the body to the engine block.
This just
> helps the engine block get a direct ground.
>
> My long two cents worth
> Tim Wick
> hibernating in Wisconsin
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  
Re: Re: mytwocentsworth
Old
  (#3 (permalink))
Michael Echemann
 
Posts: n/a
   
Re: Re: mytwocentsworth - 01-30-2003, 10:22 AM


Tim:
Be sure and rebuild your master cyl. also. You've got the right idea, push the
pedal, close the bleeder and then release the pedal. Start with the rear right,
rear left, front right then front left. Can't miss.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: buoyant3 <martyandcaryl@charter.net>
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:49 AM
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: mytwocentsworth


Tim
How's it going? I need to do a brake job and want to learn anything
special B4 I start. I don't understand the part in your bleeding
where you let the peddle up then close the bleeder. I have always
closed the bleeder B4 letting the peddle up. What gives?
Marty
BUOYANT in WI
Looking for a little more snow tonight.

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, wick68355@a... wrote:
> On door seals. I would think you would be better off with both
seals
> installed as was original. Just the idea of the rubber against the
steel does
> not seem as secure as rubber to rubber.
> On bleeding brakes. I like to bleed the brakes on our Amphi every
season.
> This just gives me a piece of mind knowing that I have done what I
can to
> keep the fluid free of dirt and water. I have tried a pressure
bleeder and
> have not had much luck. I have also tried a Mighty Vac bleeder.
This just
> does not seem to work either. I believe it does not work because of
the
> valveing in the master. My best luck has been simply be following
the large
> shop manual which came with the Amphicar. All that I do is open
one bleeder
> at a time and then push the peddle down, here is where it gets
weird. Let the
> peddle up then close the bleeder. Do not pump the peddle. Start at
the
> farthest wheel and work towards the closest to the master.
> Also for you first time or new Amphi owners, replace the small hose
that is
> attached to the bottom of the plastic reservoir. It has a tendency
to
> collapse and not let fluid out.
> On positive ground generators. I have kept our Amphi positive
ground only
> because of my desire to keep as many things original as possible.
My one
> modification to the charging system is the addition of an extra
positive
> ground cable running from the stud on the body to the engine block.
This just
> helps the engine block get a direct ground.
>
> My long two cents worth
> Tim Wick
> hibernating in Wisconsin
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  
Re: Re: mytwocentsworth
Old
  (#4 (permalink))
Gary Grieshaber
 
Posts: n/a
   
Re: Re: mytwocentsworth - 01-30-2003, 04:11 PM


Hi,
This method of brake bleeding involves attaching a rubber hose to the
bleeder and placing the other end in a container(e.g. glass Coke
bottle) partially filled with CLEAN brake fluid. Open the bleeder, push
the pedal, air(if there is any)will escape thru the hose into the
bottle and when the pedal is released only fluid will return to the
bleeder! Or, have a friend come over for a beer, and a brake fluid
covered forearm.
Gary.

> Tim
> How's it going? I need to do a brake job and want to learn anything
> special B4 I start. I don't understand the part in your bleeding
> where you let the peddle up then close the bleeder. I have always
> closed the bleeder B4 letting the peddle up. What gives?
> Marty
> BUOYANT in WI
> Looking for a little more snow tonight.
>
> --- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, wick68355@a... wrote:
> > On door seals. I would think you would be better off with both
> seals
> > installed as was original. Just the idea of the rubber against the
> steel does
> > not seem as secure as rubber to rubber.
> > On bleeding brakes. I like to bleed the brakes on our Amphi every
> season.
> > This just gives me a piece of mind knowing that I have done what I
> can to
> > keep the fluid free of dirt and water. I have tried a pressure
> bleeder and
> > have not had much luck. I have also tried a Mighty Vac bleeder.
> This just
> > does not seem to work either. I believe it does not work because of
> the
> > valveing in the master. My best luck has been simply be following
> the large
> > shop manual which came with the Amphicar. All that I do is open
> one bleeder
> > at a time and then push the peddle down, here is where it gets
> weird. Let the
> > peddle up then close the bleeder. Do not pump the peddle. Start at
> the
> > farthest wheel and work towards the closest to the master.
> > Also for you first time or new Amphi owners, replace the small hose
> that is
> > attached to the bottom of the plastic reservoir. It has a tendency
> to
> > collapse and not let fluid out.
> > On positive ground generators. I have kept our Amphi positive
> ground only
> > because of my desire to keep as many things original as possible.
> My one
> > modification to the charging system is the addition of an extra
> positive
> > ground cable running from the stud on the body to the engine block.
> This just
> > helps the engine block get a direct ground.
> >
> > My long two cents worth
> > Tim Wick
> > hibernating in Wisconsin
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Before posting requests for information, please check the List
> Archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
> For more information about this List and other available services
> visit:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
> To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
> amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
> amphicar770@yahoo.com
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

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