Hi all,

Amphi is just about together but still throwing me
some curves along the way.

My latest is what appears to be no power to the
starter. Any thoughts on diagnosing or fixing would
be appreciated.

I turn the key, hit the bilge blower override and get
the red light on my cluster gauge. I turn the key and
get a nice strong "click" sound from the voltage
regulator. That is all.

I thought maybe the starter was bad so I pulled that
and just got it back from the rebuild shop. (It was
pretty cruddy inside and they did a very nice job for
$45). Anyway, I put it back in, and no change. Also
nothing if I push the starter button in the engine
compartment.

Not sure if I attached to the right spots but I took
the ends of a voltmeter and placed one on the
electrical lead to the starter and another on the
engine block. Again, I get the click from the
regulator but no power showing at the starter?

If the starter button in the engine compartment were
bad would it still start with the key? Which wires or
connections should I probe with the voltmeter.

Note that I did replace the voltage regulator over the
winter. I think I had started her since then but can
not be 100% certain. I swapped one wire at a time so I
think it is all hooked up correctly.

Thanks for any ideas.

Mike I.




        
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----- Original Message -----

From: Mike Israel

To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2005 6:24 AM

Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Thoughts on No Start?


Hi all,

Amphi is just about together but still throwing me
some curves along the way.

My latest is what appears to be no power to the
starter. Any thoughts on diagnosing or fixing would
be appreciated.

I turn the key, hit the bilge blower override and get
the red light on my cluster gauge. I turn the key and
get a nice strong "click" sound from the voltage
regulator. That is all.

Mike:

That nice "click" sound should be the starter relay closing the circuit for the starter motor, not the voltage regulator.

Check for 12 V at the battery terminal (all referenced to frame or block), then move along the heavy battery cable to the STARTER SOLENOID input terminal. Still should see 12 V there.

Now look at the heavy cable going from the STARTER SOLENOID to the STARTER. When you turn the ignition switch, the solenoid should make a click (as it closes a heavy electric switch), and power should now flow to the starter motor. Normally, you never hear the click, because the starter and then the engine is much louder.

If you have 12 V at the SOLENOID output terminal (when you turn the key), then look at the STARTER motor terminal. Is there 12 V there? If yes, it's a bad starter. (Also if yes, check for voltage on the starter motor housing [yes], if you get voltage there, then the starter grounding to the engine block is bad.) If no, then there's something wrong in the starter cable wiring.

If you want to check the starter motor quickly, just use a jumper cable to connect the starter motor terminal to the battery terminal. (Connect the starter terminal first; be ready for some sparks as you touch the cable to the battery post.)

BTW, when trouble-shooting, don't leave the starter solenoid energized too long; it will get rather warm.

If the battery to starter motor circuit checks out, then the solenoid switch contacts may be bad. Replace the solenoid.

If something else under the hood is doing the clicking, and not the starter solenoid, then you will have to find out why the solenoid switch coil is not getting its (modest) power from the ignition switch and/or over-ride system.

Ed
El Cajon, CA USA
67 Rust Guppy




        
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