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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2005, 09:25 AM
Mike Israel
 
Posts: n/a
Electrical question


Hi all,

Quick question.

On which side of the coil (positive or negative) should the thin wire from the
distributor (points) be connected? This is for a positive ground amphi with
original style ignition (points, condensor, etc).

Thanks,

Mike I.

Sent wirelessly via BlackBerry from T-Mobile.




        
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2005, 07:30 PM
John Friese
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Electrical question


Hi Mike,

With the original postive ground system, the wire to the points
should go to the + side of the coil. Just the opposite if the car
has been converted to negative ground.

John Friese
67 White
67 Red




--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Israel"
wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Quick question.
>
> On which side of the coil (positive or negative) should the thin
wire from the distributor (points) be connected? This is for a
positive ground amphi with original style ignition (points,
condensor, etc).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike I.
>
> Sent wirelessly via BlackBerry from T-Mobile.




        
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2006, 05:03 PM
Amphipoda
 
Posts: n/a
Electrical question


Haven't been able to trace down the starting problem
but suspect it may be the bilge blower fuse.

Symptoms:
The blower blows and the override button turns it off just fine.
The engine will crank over but doesn't start (no spark at plugs).
The engine will start and run fine but only if I use a jumper wire
from ground to the coil (but the engine stays running after the key
is turned to `off').
Also, and this may or may not be related, but my bilge pump doesn't
work either.

Question:
Would the bilge blower fuse be the root cause for
both the no spark and the bilge pump issues? Is there an
easy override/fix someone can walk me through or diagram?

Thanks in advance.

Amphipoda




        
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2006, 07:43 PM
Jim Kelly
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Electrical question

I had a similar problem with my 67 and suspected a bad ground. However, I completely jumpered out the vacuum tube with a separate switch for the blower. I can run the blower separately (just like a boat) and never be concerned that the car will not start when I turn the key. The vacuum tube is still there just in casesome future ownerwants theoriginal system with bypass switch. Jim

Amphipoda wrote:
Haven't been able to trace down the starting problem
but suspect it may be the bilge blower fuse.

Symptoms:
The blower blows and the override button turns it off just fine.
The engine will crank over but doesn't start (no spark at plugs).
The engine will start and run fine but only if I use a jumper wire
from ground to the coil (but the
engine stays running after the key
is turned to `off').
Also, and this may or may not be related, but my bilge pump doesn't
work either.

Question:
Would the bilge blower fuse be the root cause for
both the no spark and the bilge pump issues? Is there an
easy override/fix someone can walk me through or diagram?

Thanks in advance.

Amphipoda









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