LSolheim

   

Although I know the ignition system is basically standard, can anyone recommend a replacement coil they have used. Presently I have an original, stock "screw-on" coil in a positive ground system modified w/ a Pertronix distributor pickup.

I have been chasing an intermittent problem where periodically (usually on a hotter day, but not always) the engine will begin to miss, eventually dying. The miss will begin earlier if the headlights are on or become worse if they are turned on. I now figure that is due to additional current draw. Changing rotors (new English production), distributor cap, wires and plugs did not make a difference. I also changed the headlight switch, as the 40+ year old contacts were quite worn.

The coil was so very hot yesterday it could not be touched. I then discovered that a ziploc bag w/ ice placed on the coil solved the problem, at least for the next ride. Fortunately the passengers wern't nervous. So it is now coil replacement time.

Thanks,
--Larry

LAH20CAR

   

I had the same problem after I put in the Petronics but doubt that caused it

The coil got so hot you couldn't touch it for long

I put in one of those fancy ones from the same guy that sold the Petronics unit

When I replaced the old one, I put it in with the wires at the top rather than the bottom as stock on the Amphicars-----at one time I ran across an email on a Spitfire site, that all coils should be horizontal or vertical with the terminals on top as the coil is filled with liquid to keep it cool.

Now it still gets a little hot, but you can keep your hand on it

Of course, it depends on wether yours is - or + ground as to which way the wires go---if it is wrong your coil will get really hot before it goes bad completely.

good luck

Amphicar Pervert

Canadian four amphs

   

I do Stock the replacement coil with the screw on cap..
they are around $35.00 and I do stock the screw on ends by themself,s along with all engine parts.
GORD SOUTER.
click on my web page at top of this section for my parts list and stock!

jfriese

   

I use the Pertronix coils with the Pertronix ignition systems. I've also used various regular coils and they all run quite hot but I've never had a problem with them.

John Friese
67 White
67 Red

LSolheim

   

Well, I've received and installed the 3 ohm black, oil-filled Pertronix coil with a nice 90 degree coil wire. A neat package.

Today is supposed to be around 90 (very HOT for here), so it should be a good test environment to see if the problem has been resolved. If not I suppose the distributor Ignitor module itself or even the voltage regulator could be suspect.

The inability to consistantly replicate the issue and, when it happens, the corresponding loss of power (ignition?) when the headlights are turned on is the stumper for me. Where could the current go?

But I am getting ahead of myself - we'll assume all will be resolved!

Keeping cool --Larry

Midwest Amphicar

   

Use your meter and look for loss on main battery cables. They can look good but corrode internally. Another area is dimmer switch could be going bad and is actually starting to short out. And the one area You really need to be aware of is the fat red wire. This wire is a factory defect. It is hot with no fuse. It rubs on metal dash then finally shorts and cars have caught on fire. Erics car almost burned in driveway, Joel in Florida caught fire while in the water. Neat thing about it car does not have to be running for this event to take place. I add a fuse at rear junction block. Later Dave the Wave

LSolheim

   

Sounds good, Mr. Wave. I do have a battery switch which I leave open when
not in use. I will be adding the in-line fuse, as noted.



The part that bothers me about this problem is:

1. Intermittent and not necessarily reproducible

2. Seems to be related to ambient temperature - always OK out-of-the-box,
but occurs after some operation. Engine temp issues are all resolved and
operating temps are OK.



Thanks,

--Larry



From: Midwest Amphicar [mailto:]
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 8:36 AM
To: lrsnpark@gmail.com
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20062] Re: Replacement Coil?



Use your meter and look for loss on main battery cables. They can look good
but corrode internally. Another area is dimmer switch could be going bad and
is actually starting to short out. And the one area You really need to be
aware of is the fat red wire. This wire is a factory defect. It is hot with
no fuse. It rubs on metal dash then finally shorts and cars have caught on
fire. Erics car almost burned in driveway, Joel in Florida caught fire while
in the water. Neat thing about it car does not have to be running for this
event to take place. I add a fuse at rear junction block. Later Dave the
Wave

LSolheim

   

For those of you using a low pressure (?) electric fuel pump, where did you
locate it? Carb side of engine-driven pump? Tank side of engine-driven
pump? Or id did you bypass the engine-driven pump all together? Also is it
switched or providing full-time pressure?



--Larry

Ron Green

   

A coil is easy to check with an ohm meter (between the low voltage + & -). For a 4 cylinder engine it needs to read between 3 and 5 ohms and the Pertronix instructions back this up. Check your old coil both when it is cold and hot and see what readings you get.

CapnJohn

   

Larry, You want the electric pump as close to the tank as possible. They are designed to push the fuel rather than pull it like the mechanicals. I have used the lower heater mounting bolt for a location. Then it is hidden. I also have a hidden switch for it as I use it for a backup primarilly.